First you must remove and disassemble the gauge cluster in your VR-4. It is not difficult at all, but follow the directions and go slowly so as not to snap a plastic tab and ruin the day. The following website was the one I used to figure out the removal and disassemble: Gauge Removal Link...
The tool for this is a dremel tool with a abrasive cut-off tool and a cylindrical abrasive stone. The cut-off tool for whacking away unwanted plastic on the main cluster and the stone to grind away the clear plastic and gauge face material.
|The circled area is where the gauge will go and thus where we will be removing the plastic material.|
| On the speedometer side, you need to trim out clear plastic
area for the circle.
Note A: the second odometer reset trip will bump the bottom of the gauge. You need to grind down the thickness of the area pointed to. Don't remove material from the length or the underside of the lever. There are two levers, you only need to trim the first one. Basically you taper down the end by a few millimeters.
Note B: you need to remove alot of the clear plastic upright for the bulbs. The one over the green buld has to be nearly removed, but don't worry, it is not visible noticable in the final product.
|A small amount of material is removed from the clear plastic on the odometer side.|
|Carefully remove the blue lens with the high beam symbol. Using a dremel tool, remove a slightly curved portion. Not much is removed, basically the tips are in the same place, just the middle is removed. Then remove a bit off of each turn signal area, but not enough to get to the green lenses.|
|The cable for the display leaves out the bottom of the cluster via the low fuel area. you need to notch each of the dividers so the cable leaves slightly off-center to the speedo side.|
| So on each of the faces of the odo and speedo, you remove an
amount enough to allow the gauge. I did this by setting the gauge
on the cluster with the faces still on and using a pencil to trace
out the smallest circle that will fit the display. Don't cut out the
amount of the outside of the display or some of the white under
plastic might show.
The oval area is where all of the center dividers must be removed all the way down to the back area.
| Now from the front of the cluster, you remove the same circle
of material. Go Slowly! Take slightly less then you think you need to as
you can always remove more.
Once you have enough removed, use model glue to cement the gauge in place on the facing. Don't make the fit too snug or it will be hard to install.
| Here is a little helper that will save your sanity. The arrow
points to a place to drill a small hole. Only bit enough to fit a long
toothpick or small screw driver. The purpose is to hold the display
in place while putting the cluster back together. Otherwise it tends
to popup when pressed up from behind. Be sure to place a small piece
of tape over the hole when you are done to keep dust out of the inside
of the cluster.
The cable will come down and out the bottom in just the right spot to fish it though the dash to the center console (where I installed the PLX modules for the display).
|The finished product.|